Chapter Three: On Color

The tea colors white and green are regarded as premium. Tea with yellow or
black leaves have lost their charm, as the tea buds and leaves are already withered. Tea connoisseurs identity tea in a similar way as doctors examine people’s complexion. Light and clear tea is of a better quality while heavy and unclear tea is of a lower quality. This is easy to examine. Tea made in the Tang and Song Dynasty has been steamed and molded. Even though the color remains appealing, it is not as beautiful as the tea nowadays.

Chapter Four: On Fragrance

Tea has its real fragrance that cannot stand any artificiality. Its grassy smell is removed during the procedure of frying. When it is handled properly, the fragrance of tea is completely released. When this tea is brewed it is as if one cannot smell its fragrance after staying in the room for long, butterflies will fly in when the window is opened. This is precisely the real fragrance of tea. Its nature will be quickly ruined when artificial processing is applied to it. Imaging the golden Dragon Cake in the Song Dynasty, I assume it would not have such beauty of nature despite its luxury.